From Hill Country to Jazz Fest: On The Record Tracks the Sound of America’s Roots

Episode 20 of On The Record finds Brian Wise reporting in from the field—first Austin, then New Orleans—with the kind of on-the-ground detail that reminds you why festivals still matter, even as many struggle to survive.

The journey begins in Austin, a city Wise describes as rapidly changing, both culturally and politically. A fleeting but telling moment on an airport bus—two locals openly criticising the current administration—captures the uneasy but vocal undercurrent of contemporary America. Austin, he notes, remains a “blue island in a sea of red,” though shifting demographics suggest that balance may not be fixed for long.

But it’s music, not politics, that anchors the episode. Wise’s first stop is the Old Settler’s Music Festival, a long-running Texas institution that offers a revealing contrast to Australia’s shrinking festival landscape. Where events like Bluesfest have faltered, Old Settler’s has adapted—downsizing, relocating, and leaning into its core audience.

Now staged at a campground in the Hill Country, the festival has shed its larger ambitions in favour of something more intimate and sustainable. The crowds are smaller, the lineup more bluegrass-focused, but the spirit remains intact. It’s a model of survival through flexibility—something many festivals might study closely.

The music itself reflects that shift. Acts like Billy Bright and Shelby Means underline the strength of contemporary bluegrass, while Texas stalwart Kevin Russell—fronting his band Shiny Ribs—brings a more theatrical, soul-inflected energy. It’s a reminder that genre boundaries remain porous, even in ostensibly traditional settings.

From there, the action moves to New Orleans and the looming sprawl of Jazz Fest—a very different beast. If Old Settler’s is intimate, Jazz Fest is overwhelming: a sprawling, multi-stage marathon where tough choices are unavoidable. With no repeat sets, every decision carries weight.

Wise runs through a lineup that veers from the mainstream (Kings of Leon, Stevie Nicks) to the roots-heavy (Rhiannon Giddens, Jason Isbell) and beyond, encompassing reggae, jazz and blues across multiple stages.

The sheer scale is both the festival’s strength and its challenge—less a weekend outing than a carefully plotted military campaign.

Beyond the festivals themselves, the episode captures the broader rhythm of a working trip. There are club shows (including Connecticut jam band Goose), upcoming highlights like Gillian Welch and David Rawlings’ Grateful Dead set, and a pilgrimage to see Bob Dylan in Baton Rouge.

Add in two nights with Wilco and a stack of interviews—from Judith Owen to Charlie Musselwhite—and the itinerary quickly becomes a snapshot of the current roots landscape in motion.

There’s even time for a detour through Austin’s bookstores in search of Dylan literature—because some habits travel well.

Hear the full episode and check out the show notes below…