By Brian Wise.
New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival 2025 – Second Weekend, Fairgrounds Racetrack, May 1-4.
If it seems like I haven’t seen the normal number (for me) of JazzFest acts along with concerts and gigs then you are correct. Slowed down considerably, I am still averaging 15,000 steps a day! Imagine how many I would do If I was one hundred per cent. For the first decade of my visits here I would go to at least one or sometimes two gigs a night. But you have to remember that things were a lot cheaper then and the Australian dollar was a lot stronger. I’ll talk about this in my column soon.
Our first evening gig, apart from George Porter Jr and The Runnin’ Pardners at Lafayette Square, was Wednesday (April 30) at Chickie Wah Wah where we witnessed true legends in Dan Penn and Spooner Oldham. You forget how many great songs they have written together and with others: some of the greatest in music history. Dan told lots of stories behind the songs while Spooner nodded on and played delightfully on the Wurlitzer.
Thursday May 1
As we walked to the bus stop we passed Rhythms scribe Trevor Leeden and friends sitting forlornly waiting for someone to come and fix the flat on their rental car (no jack or spare tyre provided). Trevor informed me that Alejandro Escovedo had cancelled his show at the Fais Do Do stage that afternoon. There was also a rumour that Santana was ill but referred to a case of dehydration he had last week in Texas.
Cedric Burnside kicked off the day for me in the Blues Tent with some down home Hill Country Mississippi blues, beginning solo and then joined by his band. This was followed by local act Sierra Green & The Giants who sounded quite good with their R&B and soul but were probably unremarkable.
Then it was off to the Jazz Tent for the George Wein Centennial tribute featuring Randy Brecker. Wein was the founder of JazzFest and before that the founder of the Newport Jazz and Folk festivals and a number of other festivals in the USA and apparently more than 20 in Europe over the years.
I was a little bit hesitant about heading for the main festival stage to see Santana, the day’s closing act. I had not bought my chair and I thought it might be really crowded. However, using a method that has proved worthwhile over the years, I managed to get a really good spot by entering the arena to the right of the stage and up on the slight rise at the back. Great viewing spot and a lot of really nice, friendly people. Santana was seated and I envied him his chair, but his playing was as fluent as ever. First songs I heard were ‘Soul Sacrifice’, then a long ‘Evil Ways’/’Black Magic Woman’/’Gypsy Queen’ medley and ‘Oye Como Va’. Very tasty.
Friday May 2
It was a shortened day out at JazzFest today. I had a couple of interviews for the radio show in the late morning – CC Adcock, Jon Cleary – and needed to do some planning for the program as well. But, with perfect timing I arrived outside the Gospel Tent just as Irma Thomas came on stage for her one hour showcase of ‘gospel/soul’ songs. Edging my way into the tent through the assembled throng waiting to get in I was immediately offered a seat by a lady who had a spare seat next to her and who obviously felt sorry for me! My lucky day!
Irma is 84 years of age and sounds at least 40 years younger. She has just recorded an album with Galactic which is her best in decades. For an hour in the gospel tent she held everyone spellbound with her voice while at the same time preaching the importance of her religion and how it has helped her. I would venture to suggest that having an inspiring voice might have been of equal assistance in her life.
The day ended with a lovely hour of Cajun music from Beausoleil avec Michael Doucet, another legendary Louisiana outfit. They certainly don’t hide their French roots and while the voices are a little croaky these days, the playing is still great.
As an example of who I didn’t get to see today just let me give you a shortlist: Hurray for The Riffa Raff/Joan Jett & The Blackhearts/The Wailers (CS), The Fabulous Thunderbirds.
Also, it must have been ‘Country Music Day’ on the main stage. Sister act, The Castellows, preceded Luke Coombs, who I believe is huge everywhere. I should have twigged when I saw hundreds of people, mainly women, attired in cowboy hats and boots. I hope this isn’t a trend for future festival bookings.
Our evening finished at the Orpheum Theater seeing Karl Denson and guests (including Chuck Leavell and Bernard Fowler) in a show labelled Exile On Bourbon Street, highlighting the ‘Bobby Keyes cuts’.
Saturday May 3
There was some discussion about the merits of Rickie Lee Jones’ set. I thought her set was really interesting and was aided by the fact that she had a band as well as a horn section. Opening with ‘Danny’s All-Star Joint’, ‘Chuck E’s in Love’ and ‘The Last Chance Texaco’ set the scene for a substantial hour. However, Jones can throw a few things in from left field. In this case she noted that appearing at JazzFest for only the second time she has lived in New Orleans helped her understand how Jesus must have felt being a prophet in his own land. I think this could have been drawing a long bow. Perhaps there is a little lingering resentment on Jones’ part in releasing a jazz album a few years ago only to find it difficult to get bookings at jazz festivals!
I enjoyed a funk heavy set from Dumpstaphunk steered by Ivan Neville on the main stage. Then I got to catch a little of local stalwart Deacon John before Eric Lindell and his ‘blue eyed soul and blues’ in the Blues Tent. Couldn’t quite figure out why Lindell is not better known. The day then closed with Kenny Wayne Shepherd also in the blues tent. The main attraction here being the fact that Bobby Rush would be making a guest appearance in recognition of the album they have made together. It was a pretty agonising 40 minutes of KWS and his band before Rush was invited on stage. The final song of that set was an excruciating ten minutes with about 5 solos from Shepherd replete with appropriate grimaces. I tend to think that this was much more heavy rock than blues. Bobby Rush was a more than welcome guest when he finally appeared.
The big act of the day was Pearl Jam who attracted a massive audience to the main outdoor stage. Others on the day that were notable but who I had to miss included Margo Price, Leyla McCalla and the Pine Leaf Boys.
That evening we enjoyed a concert from Wilco, supported by Waxahatchee, at the Saenger Theater (see separate review).
Sunday May 4
The final day of Jazz Fest is now closed every year by Trombone Shorty and Orleans Avenue plus guests. A week earlier, Shorty had been joined by Elvis Costello for the Threauxdown at the Saenger Theater. Today, he was joined by Lenny Kravitz and Leo Nocentelli (ex-Meters). But there was a lot to see before the strains of Shorty and friends would ring in my ears on leaving.
For me, the final day is also marked by having a bowl of Crawfish Monica, a dish that is only available at Jazz Fest. I must confess that I didn’t have it every day! Other days, I opted for something lighter in the form of prawn and pork rice paper rolls (for a bargain US$8). I know this seems like some sort of heresy with the vast array of local and other foods available. But sometimes in the heat a refreshing change is welcome.
The plan was to first see Galactic with Jelly Joseph and Irma Thomas as special guest on the main stage. Even though Irma only performed two songs – one from the new album with Galactic and their first single together from a decade ago. Getting to the Gentilly stage I caught a few songs from George Porter Jr & Runnin’ Pardners before an entire set from local legends, The Radiators, who seem to have been around ever since I first came here. Then My Morning Jacket opened their set with ‘Walkin’ To New Orleans’, immediately getting the audience on side. The rest of their set that I caught was impressive but the sound not up to their usual standard as a breeze blew across the arena and the sounds drifted. Then it was time to head out and sample what else was on offer in the closing hour or so: Marty Stuart & His Fabulous Superlatives on the Fais Do Do stage, a sensational Patti Labelle on Congo Square, Christone ‘Kingfish’ Ingram in the Blues Tent and a colourful Kamasi Washington (and his father) in the Jazz Tent.
After eight days over two weekends it was really time for a rest. This year JazzFest was blessed with great festival-perfect weather and possibly smaller crowds which made most days comfortable. My highlight was merely surviving the event. Will I be back for next year’s event? Well, this was my 27th Jazz Fest so odds are I will. Also, Jazz Fest is so much more than just the event at the Fairgrounds. It is all the special concerts and gigs at night, the restaurants for lunch or dinner, the camaraderie and making new friends. It is much more than the sum of its parts.